Tips for Beginners

April 22, 2015 In Stone, Techniques, Tips for Beginners, Tools

Glue

Sometimes we need to secure a small crack, a micro-fissure, in a stone. Most often a few drops of super glue (Cyanoacrylate) will hold it until you finish working the area. I use the inexpensive stuff but for tight cracks, you might consider the really liquid versions of these better ones: Starbond, Zap, or Jet. They now make gel super glues for slightly wider openings.

In alabaster, this might be all you need to do. However, on marble, this type of glue may not be a permanent fix. Further, this doesn’t work well when you are gluing two pieces together. Epoxy, which is a two-part glue, is much stronger. Again you can use the inexpensive type from the hardware store. There is a more liquid type called penetrating epoxy (Tenax, Wood and Glue, and others). I do prefer the slower curing time ones – 20 minutes versus 5 minutes – to let me position components best.

Final note: If you are gluing two pieces together you may think all is well. However, it is possible that the pieces will break again along the very next row of crystals. Therefore, even though it is kind of a pain, it is best to put a small pin between the pieces which are to be reunited. This might just be a short ¼” stainless rod (or bolt with the head cut off) and then gluing the pieces with the epoxy.

January 18, 2015 In 2Sculpt, Techniques, Tips for Beginners, Tools

Sanding Tips

You must use silicon carbide sandpaper (or diamond sheets or pads). The grains of aluminum oxide paper quickly round out and stop cutting.

I use the first two grits of sandpaper dry and the rest wet. I wash off the stone between grits and allow it to dry for inspection before continuing. I then use a crayon to note the place I missed and continue. You can use an old sheet of 1000-grit sandpaper for a few minutes between grits to bring out missed scratches. Tongue depressors, ice cream sticks, small flap wheels, cone-shaped tapers, and silicon carbide rubbing sticks all aid in getting into tight places. Silicon rubbing “blocks” are flat surface chunks which, when used wet by hand, can get the bumps out of a surface. (Bumps are often felt while not seen.)
Half your sanding time is on the first grit—getting out those deep scratches. Then the next grit might be 1/4 your time and so on. The last grit is a “breeze.” Scratches hold light. Get them out and the stone glistens.

taper silicon_carbide_flapwheelSC Griding SticksSC Grinding BlockDiamond Hnd Pad

January 18, 2015 In 2Sculpt, Safety, Stone, Techniques, Tips for Beginners, Tools

Mounting Sculptures

A base is like a frame. It accentuates the sculpture. It is important to select a base that is not too busy or large for the sculpture. You don’t want to take attention away from your masterpiece. You want to have a stable base but sometimes it looks best if the sculpture overhangs its support. On the other hand, the “footprint” of the sculpture should be at least and generally not much more than 1-1.5″ from the edges of the base. As a very general rule, the height of the base should not be more than 1/3 the height of the sculpture. The base can be granite, irregular stones, steel, plexiglass wood (I like ebony stained walnut), etc.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

©2015 Ken Miduch

This is an art, not a science, so each case is different.

Azzurro Acquamarino Marble

©2015 E. Woodbury

Here is the detail methodology of “basing”:

• Get a flat and level surface to work upon
• Determine sculpture position; secure and hold it
• Mark bottom level line
• Cut bottom; check for flatness (might use a tile)
• On larger bases, cut out center of the bottom to make flattening easier
• Determine hole location in sculpture bottom (find center with a pebble)
• Drill hole with hammer or core drill (consider the bedding plane)
• Determine hole in base: mark sculpture footprint on the base or cut out a template (cardboard or masonite); mark “up”
• Drill base
• Decide on pins: stainless steel or turning pin: gluing one or both sides or using threaded connectors. Consider the ultimate weight of the piece.
• Put non-scratch feet base or adjustable feet on larger pedestal
• Proudly display sculpture

December 14, 2014 In 2Sculpt, Safety, Tips for Beginners

General Safety

All the stones sold from 2sculpt are safe: no asbestos, arsenic, radioactivity or trans-fatsRespirator. Still, you should always wear a paper mask and safety glasses. If you are using power tools and therefore creating a lot of dust you need ear protection and should have on a respirator.  Whereas a paper mask catches about 40% of the dust, a double respirator labeled as P100 will provide about 99% protection. Gel bicycle gloves without the fingers are my favorite for vibration.

October 11, 2014 In Tips for Beginners, Tools

Power Tools

The most important tools are the basic hand chisels, a 1.5# hammer and a rasp. The first power tools should be an angle grinder (7.5 amps or more) and a diamond blade (or a Dremel if working very small) and perhaps a straight “die” grinder. The next step is a big but wonderful one: an air compressor. This will open up the world of lighter but more powerful tools.

Electric angle grinders come in different sizes which refer to the blade size they can accommodate. A 4.5″ or 5″ grinder can both use a 5″ diameter blade with the larger size having a more powerful motor. There are more rare 6″ and 7″ grinders but usually the next step up is 7/9″ “body” grinder. This is used for 7″ and 9″ blades. It is important not to put larger blades than the rating of the grinder. There are two reasons for this. A larger blade (like a 7″ on a 4.5/5″ grinder) will be too close to your fingers. Secondly, blades have safety ratings based upon speed as follows: 5″ blade – 12,000 rpm; 7″ blade – 8,000 rpm; 9″ blade – 6,000 rpm. Check the speed of the gMakita angle grinderrinder you want to purchase.

Again, the higher the amperage the grinder the longer it will last through the dust we create. Get below 7.5 amps and life is usually short. The best brand of 5″ angle grinder is 11 amps. The top brands are currently Makita, Metabo and Bosch. Unfortunately, many of the known “American” brands are made in low-quality producing countries.

The other electric power tool to consider after the angle grinder is a straight or “die” grinder. These take 1/4″ shank tools particularly burrs. The air versions of these are much lighter and die grindercheaper but use a LOT of air – more than can be produced on a portable compressor. For under $ 150 you can get an electric version that can give you the same, albeit, heavier results.
Compressors open up a whole other world of tools for stone sculpting (and keeping your car tires full). A portable compressor should be rated for at least 4.6 cfm at 90 psi (30 gallons). This will run an air hammer. To drive an air grinder you need a larger stationary machine that preferably has at least 12 cfm at 90 psi (60 gallons). Tank size is noted and is an important variable. If the tank is smaller than these sizes the compressor will be running all the time which will shorten its life.  If you use the portable compressor, as mentioned above, there is nothing wrong with getting an electric die grinder that uses 1/4” shaft tools.

 

 

 

 

Andes Onyx by Art Wells

Ming Green by
Syd Summerhill

Azzurro Acquamarina by Bart Ingraham