Safety

Catching Dust

If using power tools we create dust. We are wearing our masks so we aren’t breathing it in. But the neighbors…

Wood dust collectors do not seem to work well. You can make a downdraft table but that is good for small projects only. There are excellent (expensive) professional systems that have a vacuum system behind a “waterfall.” In Italy, they often use a DIY system consisting of a water trough with a corrugated metal or plastic sheet in it. Water cascades from a pipe with holes along the top of the sheet. A small pump recirculates the water. Either a fan is placed behind the sculptor or holes in the sheet have a suction system behind it. (Excuse the crude sketch.)

PPE for Stone Sculpting

All the stones sold from 2sculpt are safe to carve. That means no asbestos, arsenic, radioactivity, or trans-fats. Still, you should always wear personal protective equipment (PPE), namely a paper mask and safety glasses.

If you are using power tools and therefore creating a lot of dust you need ear protection and should have on a respirator.
Whereas a paper mask catches about 40% of the dust, a double respirator labeled as P100 will provide about 99% protection. Gel bicycle gloves without the fingers are my favorite for vibration.

Lifting: Back Preservation

Yeah, stone is heavy. Alabaster weighs 160 pounds per cubic foot and marble 170 pounds.  Brute strength lifting is not wise: thought and cleverness rules here.  Think of the ingenuity of the Egyptians or Mayans of erecting tall stone monuments.

1. Never lose gravity.  If your stone is already off the ground, work vertically. That is use a board and rollers to get it to its destination. Do not lower it to the ground and have to pick it up again.

2. A stone can be walked on its corners. A 200 pounder can effectively become 60 pounds. Three steel pipes of 1.5” diameter can roll a very large block: two under and the third to replace the one coming off the back as it rolls. A pebble placed under a stone makes it easy to rotate.

3. An engine hoist is a relatively inexpensive lifting and moving devise. Wood planks might have to be placed under the small wheels to move it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See this fun video where a guy moves giant stones via primitive methods:

 

The Mounting Process – Summarized

  •  Get a flat and level surface to work upon
  •  Determine sculpture position; secure and hold it
  •  Mark bottom level line
  •  Cut bottom; check for flatness (might use a tile)
  •  On larger bases, cut out the center of the bottom to make flattening easier
  •  Determine the hole location in the sculpture bottom (find the center with a pebble)
  •  Drill hole with a hammer or core drill (consider the bedding plane)
  •  Determine hole in base: mark the sculpture footprint on the base or cut out a template (cardboard or masonite); mark “up”
  •  Drill base
  •  Decide on pins: stainless steel or turning pin:  gluing one or both sides or using threaded connectors. Consider the ultimate weight of the piece.
  •  Put non-scratch feet base or adjustable feet on a larger pedestal
  •  Proudly display sculpture

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

by Ken Miduch

Drilling Basics

All the stones sold from 2sculpt are safe: no asbestos, arsenic, radioactivity, or trans-fats. Stones of which to be cautious are sandstone and granite (silica), soapstone (asbestos), and jade and copper (heavy metals). This is not to say that they cannot be sculpted; just be thoughtful of the dust. 

You should always wear at least a paper mask (to minimize lung congestion) and safety glasses. If you are using power tools and therefore creating a lot of dust you need ear protection and should have on a respirator. Whereas a paper mask catches about 40% of the dust, a double respirator labeled as P100 will provide about 99% protection (less than $20 for a 3M half respirator).  Gel bicycle gloves without the fingers are my favorite for vibration. There are more elaborate anti-vibration gloves that secure the wrist to minimize carpel tunnel damage.

Heavy Lifting

Don’t. One wrong twist or extension can have long-term implications. I got impatient and reached over the edge of my trailer to lift the edge of a heavy stone just a little. Cantilevered at a 90-degree angle I did the worst thing and pulled my lower back. That took over a year to heal. (If this should happen, get on a flat surface and start stretching immediately to minimize the damage.)

Of course, always lift with your back straight and have your legs take most of the weight. But machines, even simple ones, make much sense. To move horizontally I pry the stone up a little with a pry bar and then insert two short 1-1.5” pipes so that I can roll the stone forward. I may have to lay a few boards on the floor or grass so the pipes will roll but I will slowly get to my destination.

You can lift a stone with a portable engine hoist (around $200). You can also tilt a stone forward and put a 2×4” block under it. Then lift the other side and put a block under that side. Now lift the opposite side and insert a second block of wood. Keep repeating this process until you reach the desired height. See this interesting Youtube of a guy building his own Stonehenge with any power tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K7q20VzwVs

Remember never lose height. If a stone is already up in the air, like on a pickup bed or car trunk, do not throw it on the ground to be lifted anew onto a stand. Do everything you can to avoid having to lift it a second time.

Mounting Sculptures

A base is like a frame. It accentuates the sculpture. It is important to select a base that is not too busy or large for the sculpture. You don’t want to take attention away from your masterpiece. You want to have a stable base but sometimes it looks best if the sculpture overhangs its support. On the other hand, the “footprint” of the sculpture should be at least and generally not much more than 1-1.5″ from the edges of the base. As a very general rule, the height of the base should not be more than 1/3 the height of the sculpture. The base can be granite, irregular stones, steel, plexiglass wood (I like ebony stained walnut), etc.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

©2015 Ken Miduch

This is an art, not a science, so each case is different.

Azzurro Acquamarino Marble

©2015 E. Woodbury

Here is the detail methodology of “basing”:

• Get a flat and level surface to work upon
• Determine sculpture position; secure and hold it
• Mark bottom level line
• Cut bottom; check for flatness (might use a tile)
• On larger bases, cut out center of the bottom to make flattening easier
• Determine hole location in sculpture bottom (find center with a pebble)
• Drill hole with hammer or core drill (consider the bedding plane)
• Determine hole in base: mark sculpture footprint on the base or cut out a template (cardboard or masonite); mark “up”
• Drill base
• Decide on pins: stainless steel or turning pin: gluing one or both sides or using threaded connectors. Consider the ultimate weight of the piece.
• Put non-scratch feet base or adjustable feet on larger pedestal
• Proudly display sculpture

General Safety

All the stones sold from 2sculpt are safe: no asbestos, arsenic, radioactivity or trans-fatsRespirator. Still, you should always wear a paper mask and safety glasses. If you are using power tools and therefore creating a lot of dust you need ear protection and should have on a respirator.  Whereas a paper mask catches about 40% of the dust, a double respirator labeled as P100 will provide about 99% protection. Gel bicycle gloves without the fingers are my favorite for vibration.